Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

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Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Misty Fields » Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:22 pm

I have a tasmanian myrtle ( nothofagus Cunninghamii) its about 10yrs old and stands about 8ft in a large pot.
When is the best time to repot it and how far can I trim the roots back??
Also would it be possible to cut back to make into a bonsai from such a large tree and how would I go about it??
I have not attempted such a large tree before to train into a bonsai, I am self taught.
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Mister Wisteria » Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:35 am

Can't help you with your problem but I'm sure some one will be able to, welcome to the Forum. :D
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby The Estate » Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:09 pm

Taffy would have your answer, any chance if a pic so he can help you :?:
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Misty Fields » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:28 pm

Hi all Misty Fields here again, with possibly a photo of my Myrtle Tree if I can figure out how to add an attachment :-?
Hope it will work.
Maybe someone can help me out with my previous question.
Myrtle Beech.jpg
Myrtle Beech
Myrtle Beech.jpg (77.6 KiB) Viewed 7514 times
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby taffyman » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:42 pm

Hi Misty, and welcome to the forum. That's a very nice Beech you have there - very nice. Best time to re-pot is early spring just before the buds burst. If you wait till the leaves are growing it's too late. Branch pruning is best done in winter when there are no leaves on the tree. As long as you leave a couple of buds on a branch it will bounce back in spring with a whole new lot of growth. You can safely cut away 1/3 of the roots for the first prune - and if you have cut a lot of the branches back in winter then you should be able to take up to 1/2 of the root-ball off. The main roots you should try and remove first are the heaviest ones. They are the ones that will possibly be tangled up in the pot. What you need are the fine 'feeder' roots - the more feeder roots, the more foliage growth you'll get. The way your particular variety grows, it is ideal for Bonsai. It can be made into a very dense foliage covered tree.
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby TasV » Thu May 01, 2008 11:45 pm

Hiya Guys,

Just be aware that this particular native beech (Nothofagus cunnighamii) is evergreen and doesn't lose its leaves at all. The deciduous native beech is a low growing one affectionately know as tanglefoot (Nothofagus gunii) which is currently setting the Cradle Mountain National Park on fire with it's awesome autumn display 8)

Image

Image

You've had your N. cunninghami for some time now and will know what I mean when I say that the new growth begins to swell in the leaf axils of the old leaves around the end of winter/early spring and they never really go dormant. Do as Taffy says and keep an eye on those buds and time the re-potting to occur before bud burst as the strong 'urge' to grow new growth seems to allow the plant to overcome other stresses by the sheer momentum of making new growth.

My trees (fairly large trees at about 20-30ft tall) have just set and enormous amount of seed - I collected about 1000 seeds without trying too hard and will be stratifying some soon to try for some more to make into bonsai.

Image
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Pam » Fri May 02, 2008 7:07 am

Those are stunning trees, TasV. Perhaps you should be looking at air layering a couple as well, to get a head start?
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby taffyman » Fri May 02, 2008 4:05 pm

That's an amazing display of Autumn colour. Thanks for giving the advice about that particular species being non-deciduous Tas. Always something new to be learned every day. Both species look excellent candidates for Bonsai.
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Misty Fields » Fri May 02, 2008 8:41 pm

Thanks for the information TAFFY and TAS you have been most helpful you are right TAS this one doesnt lose its leaves I will keep a watch on it and follow your advice with repotting. :D
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby taffyman » Fri May 09, 2008 9:16 pm

Hi Misty, sorry for taking so long to answer. Thanks for that full sized photo as well (Y)
Now, I reckon you've got at least 30 potential trees in your pot, with of course the main one down the bottom. It really depends on what you yourself want to do with the tree. If you want to just cut the whole thing down to just one tree, then that's fine. It would be an awful waste of some excellent material for other trees but of course, it also depends on how much time you want to spend working on it. I don't know if you've done any aerial-layering, but if I had your tree that's what I'd be doing - and lots of them. If you do decide to do some air-layering on it, then do them between one branch and another but making sure you have some foliage before and after the layer. That ensures the remaining part of the branch stays alive. In the first photo, I've put some lines to give you an idea of where you could think of applying some of the air-layers. If you only want the one tree then in the second I've drawn lines where I would do all the initial cuts. The top red line would be for a pretty large tree, but I'd be more inclined to cut where the orange line is. The third photo might give you an idea of what your tree might look like when it's all cut back and has developed a bit more. If you wanted a large tree (cut at the red line in the second photo), then the fourth photo might give you some idea of what it would eventually look like. I wouldn't be attempting air-layers now in your climate - better to wait till spring. If you haven't done any air-layering but would like to have a go (and believe me, it's not that hard or difficult to do), follow this link:

http://www.gardenexpress.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=6080

If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to post them.
Oh, and if you think it's all too much, just put the whole tree in a LARGE box and send it up here - I'm sure I could painlessly 'dispose' of it for you to save you the trouble. :twisted: Material like this is what Bonsai nuts like me dream of finding.

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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Misty Fields » Fri May 09, 2008 11:36 pm

Thanks Taffy,
I couldn't see the 4 photos with your reply post that you described, am I looking in the right place :?: as I am still learning to use the forum
or did you forget to add them?
I tried an air layer on my japanese maple last spring so I have read a little on it, but dont know if it has worked yet must check and see how it is going.
Didn't think to do that with the tree but might think about it. :-?
I have quite a few little myrtles already but the size would be good if I could achieve it.
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Pam » Sat May 10, 2008 6:16 am

Misty, click on the link in Taffy's reply. The pics are there.
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Misty Fields » Sat May 10, 2008 7:06 pm

Thanks Pam I checked out the link pictures of the air layering, but Taffy was describing what to do with my myrtle tree and said there were 4 photos with markers on, I couldnt find them anywhere :?:
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby taffyman » Sat May 10, 2008 10:32 pm

Geez, I can be a right idiot at times Image Sorry about that Misty :oops: . Have another look at that reply, hopefully the pics are there now.
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Misty Fields » Sat May 10, 2008 11:36 pm

Thanks for your help Taffy I can see them now. :D
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby Pam » Sun May 11, 2008 5:07 am

taffyman wrote:Geez, I can be a right idiot at times


:-?
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby guzzigirl » Sun May 11, 2008 9:45 am

Taffy, with all those suggested places for aerial layering, can you do multiple layers on one branch at the same time? or would you need to do one at a time?
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Re: Tasmanian Myrtle Queerie?

Postby taffyman » Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:03 pm

Sorry I'm six months late with a reply GG - I must have missed your post :oops:
Yes you sure can put multiple layers on a single branch or the main trunk. As long as there is some foliage below the layers well as above, then the layers should survive ok.
This one below started off as two trunks over 2 metres tall. I put four layers on it - 2 on each trunk and all four survived without any problems - I ended up giving them all away.

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