Follow up on Myrtle Beech

A forum dedicated to bonsai, the art of growing dwarfed, ornamentally shaped trees or shrubs in small shallow containers.

Moderators: Forum_mod, Pam, taffyman, DrDuncs

Follow up on Myrtle Beech

Postby Misty Fields » Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:01 pm

Taffy Help.....
I went with the lower yellow mark for cutting back the myrtle and took away a good 1/3 of the root ball it took ages as it was packed in that pot very solidly. After repotting it has put out a lot of new growth and is looking healthy.
I'm not sure what to do with it now as far as training and shaping as the branches seem to thick to wire. ? Would it be advisable to take the root ball back a little more again next year?
Have you any advice :?:
view 2 mark for cut.jpg
Yellow mark for cut
view 2 mark for cut.jpg (117.72 KiB) Viewed 2623 times
view3 after repotting.jpg
repotted
view3 after repotting.jpg (130.02 KiB) Viewed 2623 times
view 4 Nov 08 new growth.jpg
new growth
view 4 Nov 08 new growth.jpg (266.55 KiB) Viewed 2622 times
User avatar
Misty Fields
Head Gardener
 
Posts: 123
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:38 pm
Location: Tasmania

Re: Follow up on Myrtle Beech

Postby taffyman » Fri Nov 28, 2008 9:02 pm

Yes Misty, you should be able to reduce the root-ball some more next year. I notice the tree is sitting quite low in the pot so depending on whether you intend putting it in a Bonsai pot in the future or leaving it in this one, there's something you could do right now.
If you intend putting it into a Bonsai pot later on, I'd suggest you get a styrene vegetable box now and transfer the tree into it. That will allow the roots to spread out horizontally instead of down. At this stage you don't need to disturb the roots, just take the whole root-ball out intact, place it in the styrene box and fill all around it with new potting mix. When it's due for a root trim, you can then tease the roots out and again cut away any thick ones. The more fine roots you can develop, the better the tree will grow.
If you want to keep it in this pot, then lift it out, put a thick layer of new potting mix under it, put it back in and fill around the rootball with more potting mix. An ideal height would be where the soil level is about 25mm from the top of the pot - that also goes for the styrene box as well.
Misty, is all that foliage spilling over the edge of the pot growing from the base of the trunk?
With regards to further shaping, I'd like to wait till you can send me the photos I asked you about. There are some excellent curves in that trunk that can be really put to good use.
I doubt very much if you'd be able to put enough wire on those branches to bend them, and with such a nice smooth bark, the slightest wire mark would ruin any branch it was on. Unless it was a very young green shoot, I wouldn't be putting any wire on it at all. The best way to shape your prize is by 'clip and grow' (or basically pruning to shape) as you've started to do already where you've removed those other branches.
Taffy
Have fun, life is way too short for anything else
User avatar
taffyman
Garden Wizard
 
Posts: 2314
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:38 pm
Location: Fraser Coast Queensland

Re: Follow up on Myrtle Beech

Postby Misty Fields » Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:15 pm

Thanks Taffy, I will transfer it to a styro box must I get some, It was only ment to be in this one temperarily but got a bit lazy, There is quite a bit of soil around the roots though. I will pot it into nicer pot when its roots have been done again next year and I am quite sure its going to live.
The lower foliage is coming from the main trunk further down its just hidden by the pot.
Will send more pics soon.
User avatar
Misty Fields
Head Gardener
 
Posts: 123
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:38 pm
Location: Tasmania


Return to Bonsai

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron